Very Easy Crocheted Sweater Pattern
Made in the round - Low sewing

Sue's CrochetandKnitting.com
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easysweater1 (46K) easysweater2 (29K)


This is my version of this pattern - The Easiest Pullover Crochet Sweater You’ll Ever Make!

The pattern at the above link is made in 4 pieces and sewn together. I'm not a fan of sewing so I decided to make a sweater pattern that is done in the round. Top front is done in rows, then the yarn is broken and reattached to the back to continue crocheting the back top.

Yarn is attached to the sleeve opening and the sleeves are crocheted in the round.

The only sewing is at the shoulders.

MATERIALS
Yarn: Worsted weight #4. I used Premier Sweet Roll Yarn. Sweet Roll combines 3 complimentary colours in each ball to create wide stripes in a regular repeat without having to weave in all those tedious ends. I bought 4 skeins that were 245 yds and 5 oz./140 gram each. I had a little bit left of the last skein used.

I think this sweater would look great made with variegated yarn, and would be fun to crochet too.

Also, this sweater could be made with any weight yarn as long as you work with your gauge and measurement.

Hook: 7.00 mm

Guage:
10 rows = 4 inches.
15 sts = 5 clusters of (sc, ch1, dc in first st, skip 2 sts, ) = 4 inches.

So be sure to measure around your bust first, take that measurement and divide by 4 inches, then multiply that number by 15 sts (the amount of sts I got in 4 inches, if yours is different use that number of sts) and this amount will be how many stitches you need for your starting chain.

Your measurements and gauge are key to making this sweater in any size.

Be sure to try a small piece (which can be done in rows) first so you can measure and get your gauge.

My sweater is made in size Small (36 in. bust).

This sweater can easily be made in any size by doing the above, your gauge and your measurement to get the number of stitches for your starting chain.

Abbreviations used:
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet
tog - together

I started with Ch 135, slip stitch to join.

I suggest that after you have several rounds done, pull it down over your head and see how it fits around your bust and then slide it down to your waist. If too tight, unravel and add more to your starting ch in multiples of 3. Also if too loose, unravel and remove sts in multiples of 3 from your starting ch. It's best to do this sooner than later, you don't want to have a completed sweater that does not fit!

Rnd 1 - ch 1, * Work (sc, ch1, dc) into the next stitch. Skip next 2 sts. Rep from * all the way across, slip stitch to join to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rnd 2 - 1 sc in same st where you joined, *Work (sc, ch1, dc) into the ch 1 space of the previous row. Skip next 2 sts. Rep from * all the way across, slip stitch to join to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Photos below are after I turned at the end of rounds, and where I made the 1 sc in same st where I joined.
easysweater3 (33K) easysweater4 (37K)

Rnds 3 - 51 (add or subtract rows for your desired length) - Repeat Rnd 2 until you have the desired length up to your armpits.

Front top

Then you will work halfway across the sweater and turn and continue working back and forth in rows for the front of the top. Then break your yarn and attach to do the same for the back of the top. This will make the openings for the arm pieces.

Count your clusters, (sc, ch 1, dc clusters). Divide by 2 and work half of them back and forth to make the top front. Then do the same for the back front. If you have an odd number of clusters, work the extra cluster for the front piece.

Row 1 - 1 sc in same st where you joined, Skip next 2 sts. *Work (sc, ch1, dc) into the ch 1 space of the previous row. Skip next 2 sts. Rep from * 19 more times, 1sc in the next st of previous rnd, ch 2, turn.

Rows 2 - 14 - Skip next 2 sts *Work (sc, ch1, dc) into the ch 1 space of the previous row. Skip next 2 sts. Rep from * all the way across ending with a sc in the last stitch. ch 2. Turn On the last row, do not ch 2 and turn. Break yarn.

Back top

Start in a st before your first (sc, ch1, dc) cluster. Attach yarn, ch 1.

The photos below are showing you were I began for the back top.

easysweater7 (52K) easysweater8 (52K)

Row 1 - 1 sc in same st where you joined, Skip next 2 sts *Work (sc, ch1, dc) into the ch 1 space of the previous row. Skip next 2 sts. Rep from * 19 more times, 1sc in the next st of previous rnd, ch 2, turn.

Rows 2 - 14 Skip next 2 sts *Work (sc, ch1, dc) into the ch 1 space of the previous row. Skip next 2 sts. Rep from * all the way across ending with a sc in the last stitch. ch 2. Turn On the last row, do not ch 2 and turn. Break yarn.

Now sew across the shoulders, leaving plenty of neck room for sweater to fit over your head.

Sleeves

Measure around the top biggest part of your arm.

If your gauge is the same as mine per inch, multipy the inches by 3 to figure out how many (sc, ch1, dc) clusters to fit in around the sleeve opening.

Start at the underarm and attach yarn. Make your first st in any loop on the middle of the armpit.

Photo below shows where I started my sleeve.
easysweater9 (46K)

Next photo shows as I began my first sleeve row making the clusters along the edge of front piece. easysweater10 (37K)

Rnd 1 - 1 sc in same st where you joined, move up to the end of the next row and *Work (sc, ch1, dc) into a loop at the end of that row. Space your (sc, ch1, dc) clusters evenly around the sleeve opening. slip stitch to join to first sc, ch 1, turn. I put 15 clusters around my sleeve opening.

Rnd 2 - 1 sc in same st where you joined, *Work (sc, ch1, dc) into the ch 1 space of the previous row. Skip next 2 sts. Rep from * all the way across, slip stitch to join to first sc, ch 1, turn.

I continued for 10 rounds, then I had a decrease to taper the sleeve.

Rnd 11 (decrease round) - 1 sc in same st where you joined, Decrease: in the ch 1 space of previous rnd, insert your hook and pull up a loop. Keep that loop on your hook and move to the next ch 1 space and insert your hook and pull up a loop. Y arn over hook and pull through all 3 loops on your hook, then ch 1, 1 dc in same space to complete your cluster decrease. Continue, *Work (sc, ch1, dc) into the ch 1 space of the previous row. Skip next 2 sts. Rep from * all the way across, slip stitch to join to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Next photos show making the decrease.

easysweater11 (34K) easysweater12 (34K)

Rnds 12 to 19 - Repeat Rnd 2.

Rnd 20 - Repeat Rnd 11 (decrease Rnd).

Rnds 21 to 36 - Repeat Rnd 2.

Rnd 37 - Repeat Rn 11 (decrease Rnd).

Rnds 38 to 43 - Repeat Rnd 2.

Rnd 44 - Repeat Rn 11 (decrease Rnd).

Rnds 45 to 52 - Repeat Rnd 2.

Work rounds to your desired length. Do the same for the other sleeve.



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