Crocheted Slippers Pattern

CROCHETED SLIPPERS PATTERN Sue's CrochetandKnitting.com
http://www.crochetandknitting.com

PLEASE NOTE: I have a much easier version of these slippers at Crocheted Moccasin Slippers.

THESE SLIPPERS ARE MOCCASIN STYLE.
Women's sizes 6 - 7.
MATERIALS
2 - 50g balls of 4 ply knitting worsted.
Crochet Hook - 6.00 mm or J hook.
Note: These slippers will stretch after wearing. So for a more snug fit use a smaller size hook, such as 5.5mm or 5.00mm My notes, such as - where to make adusjments for other sizes, are in blue.

Abbreviations used:
st - stitch ch - chain ss - slip stitch sc - single crochet	hdc - half double crochet dc - double crochet Rnd - round Beg - beginning	How To Make Slip Stitches (ss) - insert hook into stitch, yarn over hook, pull up a loop and pull through the loop on your hook.

PLEASE NOTE: I have a much easier version of these slippers at Crocheted Moccasin Slippers.
If you find these slippers a little too big for a size 6, see below for tips from Steve. PLUS, some new tips from Lisa with some interesting modifications.

When you have finished the slippers, For a Variation, you can add a cuff to this slipper as is done with the Baby Slipper pattern. To do this, pick up stitches with your knitting needles around the opening of the slipper (on the bottom loops of the slip stitches). Join yarn to inside of slipper.
RND 1 - K1, P1, repeat to end of Round.
RNDS 2 - desired length - Same as Round 1.
Knit off (not too tightly). Fold down cuff.

BOTTOM (or sole of slipper) Ch 23 (Adjust here for different sizes; eg. adding 2 chs will put you up to size 8/9, subtract to decrease size. You could also use a smaller hook, such as 4.00mm or 5.00mm if you wish to make your slipper a little smaller than size 6/7.)
RND 1 - 3 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in next 18 chs, 3 dc in the last ch, pull the tail end of yarn up towards you then 3 dc in the same ch as the 3 dc you just made, (now you are going to work up the back side of your starting chain) 1 dc in next 18 back of chs, 4 dc in last back of ch st., ss to join to the beginning of your work on this round.
RND 2 - Ch 3, 1dc at bottom of ch 3, 2 dc in next 5 dc, 1 dc in next 8 dc, 1 hdc in next 1 dc, 1 sc in next 7 dc, (adjust here for different sizes, you will have more dc & sc before and after the 1 hdc if increasing; or less if decreasing. The same holds true for the next round) 2 sc in next 7 dc, 1 sc in next 7 dc, 1 hdc in next 1 dc, 1 dc in next 8 dc, 2 dc in next 5 dc, ss to join to top of ch 3 at beg. of this RND.
RND 3 - Ch 3, 1 dc at bottom of ch 3, 1 dc in next 18 dc, 1 hdc in next stitch, 1 sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in next 5 sc, 1 sc in next 12 sc, 1 hdc in next stitch, 1 dc in next 18 dc, 2 dc at the bottom of beg. ch 3, ss to join.
(For wider slippers, add another Round of sc here. You will need to make 2 sc in some stitches at the toe and heel ends so it won't curl upwards.)
RND 4 - Ch 1, ss through the front loop only of each dc and sc all around to beg (be sure not to make your slip stitches too tight), ss to join, (This forms a turning ridge for crocheting the sides) ch 1 and Turn.

SIDES OF SLIPPER All stitches (ss & sc) are through the back loop only of each stitch, unless otherwise indicated.
RND 1 - 1 sc in each ss all around to beg, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (77 sc - I'll indicate how many sc at the end of each RND, however, if you are off by a sc or 2 don't worry about it. It won't make much difference. If you are making a larger or smaller slipper, ignore this count.)
RND 2 - 1 sc in each sc of previous RND all around to beg, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (77 sc)
RND 3 - 1 ss in next 8 sc, (throughout the pattern, wherever it calls for slip stitches (ss) be sure you do not make them too tight) 1 sc in each sc to the last 8 sc of previous RND, 1 ss in next 8 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (61 sc)
RND 4 - 1 ss in next 12 sts, 1 sc in each sc to the last 6 sc of previous RND, ss in next 3 sc, ch 1, turn. (51 sc)
RND 5 - Skip the next ss, 1 ss in next 2 ss, 1 ss in next 1 sc, 1 sc in each sc to the last 6 sc of previous RND, 1 ss in next 3 sc, ch 1, turn. (44 sc)
RND 6 - Skip the next ss, 1 ss in next 2 ss, 1 ss in next 1 sc, 1 sc in each sc to the last 6 sc of previous RND, 1 ss in next 3 sc, ch 1, turn. (37 sc)
RND 7 - Skip the next ss, 1 ss in next 2 ss, 1 ss in next 1 sc, 1 sc in each sc to the last 6 sc of previous RND, 1 ss in next 3 sc, ch 1, turn. (30 sc)
RND 8 - Skip the next ss, 1 ss in next 2 ss, 1 ss in next 1 sc, 1 sc in each sc to the last 3 sc of previous RND, (26 sc) 1 ss in the next 3 sc, DO NOT TURN (you will now be working over all previous RNDS on this side of the slipper to the toe end) - proceed as follows: 1 ss in the 3 ss of previous RND, 1 ss in the turning ch 1 of the previous RND, 1 ss in the next 3 sc of the next RND below, 1 ss in the next 3 ss, 1 ss in the turning ch 1 of the next RND below, 1 ss in the next 3 sc of the next RND below, 1 ss in the next 8 ss, ss to join to the first ss at the beg of RND 3. DO NOT TURN.
RND 9 - (you will be working over all previous RNDS on this side of the slipper) Ch 1, 1 ss in the next 12 ss of RND 4, 1 ss in the next 3 sc of RND 4, 1 ss in the turning ch of RND 5, 1 ss in the next 3 ss of RND 6, 1 ss in the next 3 sc of RND 6, 1 ss in the turning ch 1 of RND 7, 1 ss in the next 3 ss of RND 8, 1 ss in each stitch to beg, ss to join.
RND 10 - Ch 1, 1 ss in each st (through front loop of sts) all around to beg, fasten off. (This forms a ridge and will be called the Ridge RND in the rest of the pattern.)

TOP OF SLIPPER ROW 1 - Count back 4 sts from where you joined at the end of RND 10 (Ridge RND). Begin here by joining yarn with a ss through the front (inside) loop of this stitch. (All sts worked on the Ridge RND will be through the front loops which will be the bottom loop from the way you will be holding at your work.) Working towards the toe end, skip the next 2 ss on the Ridge RND, 1 sc in the next 4 ss, skip the next 2 ss, ss to join in the next ss, 1 ss in the next 2 ss on the Ridge RND, turn. (You now have 4 sc across the toe end.) You may have to adjust this row if it looks lopsided. Unravel and move your beginning ss to a more suitable place on the Ridge RND. (for larger slippers, adjust so that you have 5 or 6 sc across the toe end)
ROW 2 - 1 dc in next 2 sc, 2 dc in next 1 sc, 1 dc in next 1 sc, skip 1 ss on the Ridge RND, ss to join in the next ss, 1 ss in next 2 ss on Ridge RND, turn. (5 dc across - you will have more dc across each Row if you are making larger slippers)
ROW 3 - 1 dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next 1 dc, 1 dc in next 2 dc, skip next ss on Ridge RND, ss to join in next ss, 1 ss in next 2 ss, turn. (6 dc across.)
ROW 4 - 1 dc in next 6 dc, skip next ss on Ridge RND, ss to join in next ss, 1 ss in next 2 ss, turn. (6 dc across.)
ROW 5 - 1 dc in next 3 dc, 2 dc in next 1 dc, 1 dc in next 2 dc, skip next ss on Ridge RND, ss to join in next ss, 1 ss in next 2 ss, turn. (7 dc across.)
ROW 6 - 1 dc in next 3 dc, 2 dc in next 1 dc, 1 dc in next 3 dc, skip next ss on Ridge RND, ss to join in next ss, 1 ss in next 2 ss, turn. (8 dc across.)
ROW 7 - 1 dc in next 8 dc, skip next ss on Ridge RND, ss to join in next ss, 1 ss in next 2 ss, turn. (8 dc across.)
ROW 8 - 1 dc in next 8 dc, skip next ss on Ridge RND, ss to join in next ss, 1 ss in next 1 ss, turn. (8 dc across.)
ROW 9 - You change to single crochet on this row. 1 sc in next 2 dc, 2 sc in next 1 dc, 1 sc in next 2 dc, 2 sc in next 1 dc, 1 sc in next 2 dc, skip next ss on Ridge RND, ss to join in next ss, 1 ss in next 1 ss, turn. (10 sc across.)
ROW 10 - 1 sc (through back loops only) in next 10 sc, ss to join in next ss on Ridge RND, 1 ss in next ss, turn. (10 sc across.)
ROWS 11, 12 - Same as Row 10.
ROW 13 - 1 ss in next 10 ss (through both loops), (remember, don't make your ss too tight), ss to join in next ss on Ridge RND, fasten off.

TIPS FROM STEVE: Thank you for such an enjoyable pattern! I showed one of my first tries at this pattern to my fiancée, and she loved them. However, my first try was for her, and they look right but were too big. After toying with reducing the stitches, I wound up making a simple gauge change to a size E hook. What came out was a tight little boat shape of a slipper (I tweaked it a little), but they fit her size 6 feet, and she loves them! All I need to do is put some tatted (shuttle-tatted) lace on them and her initials, and she'll be very happy. I wouldn't go any smaller with the hook, but you can go down on the ply if you don't want to change the basic shape.

TIPS FROM LISA: (1) One change I made purely by mistake, miss reading the instructions, where on the sole of the slippers after doing the hdc, your supposed to do sc, I did dc, well it worked great, as my daughter's a size 8 to 8 1/2, and I'm a size 9 to 9 1/2 (depending on the make of the shoes/slippers/boots) and they fit us both perfectly, not too tight or too loose, just perfect.
(2) The second change I made, was to make the sole one colour, and the sides and top a complimentary colour, boy do they ever look great.
(3)The third change I made was: instead of fastining off at the end of Row 13 on the top of the slipper, I joined with an ss in the Ridge RND, then ch 1, and did reverse sc's (crab stitich, I believe it's called), all around the top and sides of the opening around the slipper, this gave it a really neat look.

TIPS FROM BARBARA: I would suggest to others that, in making a larger or smaller slipper, writing down the directions for the sole, and indicating where the extra/fewer stitiches are made, will make it easier to match up the second slipper or to make that size again. It only takes a few minutes and is much easier to work with than trying to scribble the changes on the original pattern.

Sue's CrochetandKnitting.com
http://www.crochetandknitting.com

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