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Crocheted Socks

Published on November 19th, 2021 Updated: December 6th, 2021
crocheted socks pattern.

NEW! Here is a template for making adjustments for different sizes.

MATERIALS

2 - 50g balls of 4 ply knitting worsted. (This is an estimate, I usually buy larger sizes, so I am really not sure how much I used)

Hook - 4.50. See Charts for conversions.

Abbreviations used:

st - stitch ch - chain ss - slip stitch

sc - single crochet beg - beginning tog - together

This sock will fit a foot length of 9 to 91/2 inches. 4 sc = 1 inch, 4 rows of sc = 1 inch - This will help you to make adjustments for different sizes.

NOTE:For a lighter sock, using sportweight yarn that will fit a women's shoe size 8, see the Men's Socks pattern. Thanks to Norma W. for discovering that.

SOCK TOP - This sock top is 7 inches in length. Ch 30 (ch more for a longer sock top, less for a shorter sock top) ROW 1 - 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each ch to end. (29 sc) ROW 2 - 1 sc (through the back loop of st only) in each 29 sc, ch 1, turn. (Note: do not count the ch 1 in your stitch count on all rows throughout the pattern.) ROWS 3 to 35 - Same as Row 2. (Add more rows for a larger sock, omit some rows for a smaller sock.)

ROW 36 - 1 sc in each 29 sc. (Be sure to do all stitches on this row through the back loops only, too.) ROW 37 - (Joining row) ss to join Row 36 to Row 1. Turn inside out.

You now have a tube shape of ribbing. To start the foot of the sock, with right side facing you, ch 1, 1 sc at base of ch 1, 1 sc along each end of ribbing rows, ss to join to first sc at beg. (36 sc)

HEEL ROW 1 - 1 sc in first sc at the base of ch 1, (remember, ch 1 doesn't count in the stitch count) 1 sc in next 17 sc, ch 1, turn. (Add more sc for a larger heel, less for a smaller heel.) ROWS 2 to 10 - Same as Row 1. ROW 11 - 1 sc in next 7, 2 sc tog twice, 1 sc in next 7 sc, ch 1, turn. (16 sc) ROW 12 - 1 sc in next 16 sc, ch 1, turn.

ROW 13 - 1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc tog twice, fold heel in half with wrong side of heel facing you, (See picture on left.) (Next, you are basically sewing along the bottom of the heel to shape it, if you prefer and would find it easier, just sew it. I prefer to slip stitch it together as I don't care for sewing. Continue on with crochet where you ended sewing) ss the next sc to the 6th sc on this Row, ss the next sc to the 5th sc of this Row, ss the next sc to the 4th sc of this Row, ss the next sc to the 3rd sc of this Row, ss the next sc to the 2nd sc of this Row, ss the last sc to the 1st sc of this Row, ch 1, turn heel to the right side. Note: If you are still having a problem with the heel, Click Here to see a hand drawn illustration on how to do it. It is for the baby socks, however it will still show you how it's done.

CONTINUE WITH THE REST OF THE FOOT - ROW 14 - With wrong side facing, space 13 sc evenly along edge of heel rows, 1 sc in next 18 sc, place 13 sc evenly along edge of heel rows, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (44 sc) ROW 15 - 1 sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc tog (twice) 1 sc in next 16 sc, 2 sc tog (twice), 1 sc in next 10 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (40 sc) ROW 16 - 1 sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc tog (twice), 1 sc in next 14 sc, 2 sc tog (twice), 1 sc in next 9 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (36 sc) ROW 17 - 1 sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 10 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (34 sc) ROW 18 - 1 sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 9sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (32 sc) ROW 19 - 1 sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 8 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (30 sc) ROW 20 - 1 sc in next 30 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. ROWS 21 to 36 - Same as Row 20. (Add more rows for a larger sock, omit rows for a smaller sock. )

ROW 37 - 1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * twice more, 1 sc in last sc, ss to join, ch1 turn. (26 sc) ROW 38 - 1 sc in next 26 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. ROW 39 - 1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * 3 more times, 1 sc in next 2 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (22 sc) ROW 40 - 1 sc in next 22 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. ROW 41 - 1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * 3 more times, 1 sc in next 2 sc, ss to join, ch 1, join. (18 sc) ROW 42 - 1 sc in next 18 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (18 sc - For a larger sock, you will have to do some more decreasing rows such as row 41.)

ROW 43 - 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * 7 more times, 1 sc in last sc, ch 1. (10 sc) Cut yarn leaving an 8 to 10 inch tail, pull tail through loop of last ch 1. With darning needle weave yarn through sts of last row and pull tight to close up end. Secure closing and fasten off.

NEW! Here is a template for making adjustments for different sizes.

MATERIALS

2 - 50g balls of 4 ply knitting worsted. (This is an estimate, I usually buy larger sizes, so I am really not sure how much I used)

Hook - 4.50. See Charts for conversions.

My notes, such as - where to make adusjments for other sizes, are in blue.

st - stitch ch - chain ss - slip stitch

sc - single crochet beg - beginning tog - together

This sock will fit a foot length of 9 to 91/2 inches. 4 sc = 1 inch, 4 rows of sc = 1 inch - This will help you to make adjustments for different sizes.

NOTE:For a lighter sock, using sportweight yarn that will fit a women's shoe size 8, see the Men's Socks pattern. Thanks to Norma W. for discovering that.

SOCK TOP - This sock top is 7 inches in length. Ch 30 (ch more for a longer sock top, less for a shorter sock top) ROW 1 - 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each ch to end. (29 sc) ROW 2 - 1 sc (through the back loop of st only) in each 29 sc, ch 1, turn. (Note: do not count the ch 1 in your stitch count on all rows throughout the pattern.) ROWS 3 to 35 - Same as Row 2. (Add more rows for a larger sock, omit some rows for a smaller sock.)

ROW 36 - 1 sc in each 29 sc. (Be sure to do all stitches on this row through the back loops only, too.) ROW 37 - (Joining row) ss to join Row 36 to Row 1. Turn inside out.

You now have a tube shape of ribbing. To start the foot of the sock, with right side facing you, ch 1, 1 sc at base of ch 1, 1 sc along each end of ribbing rows, ss to join to first sc at beg. (36 sc)

HEEL ROW 1 - 1 sc in first sc at the base of ch 1, (remember, ch 1 doesn't count in the stitch count) 1 sc in next 17 sc, ch 1, turn. (Add more sc for a larger heel, less for a smaller heel.) ROWS 2 to 10 - Same as Row 1. ROW 11 - 1 sc in next 7, 2 sc tog twice, 1 sc in next 7 sc, ch 1, turn. (16 sc) ROW 12 - 1 sc in next 16 sc, ch 1, turn.

ROW 13 - 1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc tog twice, fold heel in half with wrong side of heel facing you, (See picture on left.) (Next, you are basically sewing along the bottom of the heel to shape it, if you prefer and would find it easier, just sew it. I prefer to slip stitch it together as I don't care for sewing. Continue on with crochet where you ended sewing) ss the next sc to the 6th sc on this Row, ss the next sc to the 5th sc of this Row, ss the next sc to the 4th sc of this Row, ss the next sc to the 3rd sc of this Row, ss the next sc to the 2nd sc of this Row, ss the last sc to the 1st sc of this Row, ch 1, turn heel to the right side. Note: If you are still having a problem with the heel, Click Here to see a hand drawn illustration on how to do it. It is for the baby socks, however it will still show you how it's done.

CONTINUE WITH THE REST OF THE FOOT - ROW 14 - With wrong side facing, space 13 sc evenly along edge of heel rows, 1 sc in next 18 sc, place 13 sc evenly along edge of heel rows, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (44 sc) ROW 15 - 1 sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc tog (twice) 1 sc in next 16 sc, 2 sc tog (twice), 1 sc in next 10 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (40 sc) ROW 16 - 1 sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc tog (twice), 1 sc in next 14 sc, 2 sc tog (twice), 1 sc in next 9 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (36 sc) ROW 17 - 1 sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 10 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (34 sc) ROW 18 - 1 sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 9sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (32 sc) ROW 19 - 1 sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 8 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (30 sc) ROW 20 - 1 sc in next 30 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. ROWS 21 to 36 - Same as Row 20. (Add more rows for a larger sock, omit rows for a smaller sock. )

ROW 37 - 1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * twice more, 1 sc in last sc, ss to join, ch1 turn. (26 sc) ROW 38 - 1 sc in next 26 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. ROW 39 - 1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * 3 more times, 1 sc in next 2 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (22 sc) ROW 40 - 1 sc in next 22 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. ROW 41 - 1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * 3 more times, 1 sc in next 2 sc, ss to join, ch 1, join. (18 sc) ROW 42 - 1 sc in next 18 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (18 sc - For a larger sock, you will have to do some more decreasing rows such as row 41.)

ROW 43 - 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * 7 more times, 1 sc in last sc, ch 1. (10 sc) Cut yarn leaving an 8 to 10 inch tail, pull tail through loop of last ch 1. With darning needle weave yarn through sts of last row and pull tight to close up end. Secure closing and fasten off.

© 2001 Susan Norrad

More Free Patterns - My Own Designs

Sue's CrochetandKnitting.com http://www.crochetandknitting.com

NOTE:For a lighter sock, using sportweight yarn that will fit a women's shoe size 8, see the Men's Socks pattern. Thanks to Norma W. for discovering that.

SOCK TOP - This sock top is 7 inches in length. Ch 30 (ch more for a longer sock top, less for a shorter sock top) ROW 1 - 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each ch to end. (29 sc) ROW 2 - 1 sc (through the back loop of st only) in each 29 sc, ch 1, turn. (Note: do not count the ch 1 in your stitch count on all rows throughout the pattern.) ROWS 3 to 35 - Same as Row 2. (Add more rows for a larger sock, omit some rows for a smaller sock.)

ROW 36 - 1 sc in each 29 sc. (Be sure to do all stitches on this row through the back loops only, too.) ROW 37 - (Joining row) ss to join Row 36 to Row 1. Turn inside out.

You now have a tube shape of ribbing. To start the foot of the sock, with right side facing you, ch 1, 1 sc at base of ch 1, 1 sc along each end of ribbing rows, ss to join to first sc at beg. (36 sc)

HEEL ROW 1 - 1 sc in first sc at the base of ch 1, (remember, ch 1 doesn't count in the stitch count) 1 sc in next 17 sc, ch 1, turn. (Add more sc for a larger heel, less for a smaller heel.) ROWS 2 to 10 - Same as Row 1. ROW 11 - 1 sc in next 7, 2 sc tog twice, 1 sc in next 7 sc, ch 1, turn. (16 sc) ROW 12 - 1 sc in next 16 sc, ch 1, turn.

ROW 13 - 1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc tog twice, fold heel in half with wrong side of heel facing you, (See picture on left.) (Next, you are basically sewing along the bottom of the heel to shape it, if you prefer and would find it easier, just sew it. I prefer to slip stitch it together as I don't care for sewing. Continue on with crochet where you ended sewing) ss the next sc to the 6th sc on this Row, ss the next sc to the 5th sc of this Row, ss the next sc to the 4th sc of this Row, ss the next sc to the 3rd sc of this Row, ss the next sc to the 2nd sc of this Row, ss the last sc to the 1st sc of this Row, ch 1, turn heel to the right side. Note: If you are still having a problem with the heel, Click Here to see a hand drawn illustration on how to do it. It is for the baby socks, however it will still show you how it's done.

CONTINUE WITH THE REST OF THE FOOT - ROW 14 - With wrong side facing, space 13 sc evenly along edge of heel rows, 1 sc in next 18 sc, place 13 sc evenly along edge of heel rows, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (44 sc) ROW 15 - 1 sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc tog (twice) 1 sc in next 16 sc, 2 sc tog (twice), 1 sc in next 10 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (40 sc) ROW 16 - 1 sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc tog (twice), 1 sc in next 14 sc, 2 sc tog (twice), 1 sc in next 9 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (36 sc) ROW 17 - 1 sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 10 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (34 sc) ROW 18 - 1 sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 9sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (32 sc) ROW 19 - 1 sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 8 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (30 sc) ROW 20 - 1 sc in next 30 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. ROWS 21 to 36 - Same as Row 20. (Add more rows for a larger sock, omit rows for a smaller sock. )

ROW 37 - 1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * twice more, 1 sc in last sc, ss to join, ch1 turn. (26 sc) ROW 38 - 1 sc in next 26 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. ROW 39 - 1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * 3 more times, 1 sc in next 2 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (22 sc) ROW 40 - 1 sc in next 22 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. ROW 41 - 1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * 3 more times, 1 sc in next 2 sc, ss to join, ch 1, join. (18 sc) ROW 42 - 1 sc in next 18 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (18 sc - For a larger sock, you will have to do some more decreasing rows such as row 41.)

ROW 43 - 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * 7 more times, 1 sc in last sc, ch 1. (10 sc) Cut yarn leaving an 8 to 10 inch tail, pull tail through loop of last ch 1. With darning needle weave yarn through sts of last row and pull tight to close up end. Secure closing and fasten off.

© 2001 Susan Norrad

SOCK TOP - This sock top is 7 inches in length. Ch 30 (ch more for a longer sock top, less for a shorter sock top) ROW 1 - 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each ch to end. (29 sc) ROW 2 - 1 sc (through the back loop of st only) in each 29 sc, ch 1, turn. (Note: do not count the ch 1 in your stitch count on all rows throughout the pattern.) ROWS 3 to 35 - Same as Row 2. (Add more rows for a larger sock, omit some rows for a smaller sock.)

ROW 36 - 1 sc in each 29 sc. (Be sure to do all stitches on this row through the back loops only, too.) ROW 37 - (Joining row) ss to join Row 36 to Row 1. Turn inside out.

You now have a tube shape of ribbing. To start the foot of the sock, with right side facing you, ch 1, 1 sc at base of ch 1, 1 sc along each end of ribbing rows, ss to join to first sc at beg. (36 sc)

ch more for a longer sock top, less for a shorter sock top

29 sc

through the back loop of st only

Note: do not count the ch 1 in your stitch count on all rows throughout the pattern.

Add more rows for a larger sock, omit some rows for a smaller sock.

Be sure to do all stitches on this row through the back loops only, too.

Joining row

36 sc

HEEL ROW 1 - 1 sc in first sc at the base of ch 1, (remember, ch 1 doesn't count in the stitch count) 1 sc in next 17 sc, ch 1, turn. (Add more sc for a larger heel, less for a smaller heel.) ROWS 2 to 10 - Same as Row 1. ROW 11 - 1 sc in next 7, 2 sc tog twice, 1 sc in next 7 sc, ch 1, turn. (16 sc) ROW 12 - 1 sc in next 16 sc, ch 1, turn.

ROW 13 - 1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc tog twice, fold heel in half with wrong side of heel facing you, (See picture on left.) (Next, you are basically sewing along the bottom of the heel to shape it, if you prefer and would find it easier, just sew it. I prefer to slip stitch it together as I don't care for sewing. Continue on with crochet where you ended sewing) ss the next sc to the 6th sc on this Row, ss the next sc to the 5th sc of this Row, ss the next sc to the 4th sc of this Row, ss the next sc to the 3rd sc of this Row, ss the next sc to the 2nd sc of this Row, ss the last sc to the 1st sc of this Row, ch 1, turn heel to the right side. Note: If you are still having a problem with the heel, Click Here to see a hand drawn illustration on how to do it. It is for the baby socks, however it will still show you how it's done.

CONTINUE WITH THE REST OF THE FOOT - ROW 14 - With wrong side facing, space 13 sc evenly along edge of heel rows, 1 sc in next 18 sc, place 13 sc evenly along edge of heel rows, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (44 sc) ROW 15 - 1 sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc tog (twice) 1 sc in next 16 sc, 2 sc tog (twice), 1 sc in next 10 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (40 sc) ROW 16 - 1 sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc tog (twice), 1 sc in next 14 sc, 2 sc tog (twice), 1 sc in next 9 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (36 sc) ROW 17 - 1 sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 10 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (34 sc) ROW 18 - 1 sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 9sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (32 sc) ROW 19 - 1 sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 8 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (30 sc) ROW 20 - 1 sc in next 30 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. ROWS 21 to 36 - Same as Row 20. (Add more rows for a larger sock, omit rows for a smaller sock. )

ROW 37 - 1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * twice more, 1 sc in last sc, ss to join, ch1 turn. (26 sc) ROW 38 - 1 sc in next 26 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. ROW 39 - 1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * 3 more times, 1 sc in next 2 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (22 sc) ROW 40 - 1 sc in next 22 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. ROW 41 - 1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * 3 more times, 1 sc in next 2 sc, ss to join, ch 1, join. (18 sc) ROW 42 - 1 sc in next 18 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (18 sc - For a larger sock, you will have to do some more decreasing rows such as row 41.)

ROW 43 - 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * 7 more times, 1 sc in last sc, ch 1. (10 sc) Cut yarn leaving an 8 to 10 inch tail, pull tail through loop of last ch 1. With darning needle weave yarn through sts of last row and pull tight to close up end. Secure closing and fasten off.

remember, ch 1 doesn't count in the stitch count

Add more sc for a larger heel, less for a smaller heel.

16 sc

See picture on left.

44 sc

40 sc

36 sc

34 sc

32 sc

30 sc

Add more rows for a larger sock, omit rows for a smaller sock.

26 sc

22 sc

18 sc

18 sc - For a larger sock, you will have to do some more decreasing rows such as row 41.

10 sc